You can use one of the following methods to get through the waves
Turtle roll:
Paddle towards the oncoming wave. Time it to roll over when you are about 5 meters away from the wave with the nose of the board facing the wave. Move your hands up around the nose of the board and pull the board down so the wave could roll over the board. You could even grip the board with your legs on the bigger days.
Punch through:
When you get to a small rolling wave, aim the board directly towards it, hold each rail near the nose of the board tightly and do a push up. The soup will wash between you and your board and not bounce you around as much.
Duck dive:
The duck dive is the best way to get under a wave but it takes a bit of time to learn as well as timing to do it with a big board. You can break the duckdive up in a few stages.
Also read Learning to duck dive
